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1. #OLD STYLE TO NEW STYLE O2J TRANS SHIFT ASSEMBLY PRO#
2. #OLD STYLE TO NEW STYLE O2J TRANS SHIFT ASSEMBLY FREE#

The larger window allows for higher RPM shifts. Notice how large the window is between the lugs.

#OLD STYLE TO NEW STYLE O2J TRANS SHIFT ASSEMBLY PRO#

Stock Muncie input on the left, and one modified with Liberty’s Pro Shift Ring on the right.Ī JT5 Enduro gear has this removable dog ring faceplate. Every other tooth has been machined away to create the 18-tooth gear. The standard A833 slider ring featured 36 teeth, but Chrysler was the only one of the Big Three to offer an 18-tooth slick-shift slider ring. In fact, you could purchase from Chrysler complete, new gearsets and sliders for the A833. You purchased the sliders and modified your own gears. This technique is called “slick shifting.” From the 1960s to the early 1980s, it was possible to find new sliders specifically made for slick shifting. The downside is that the engagement teeth must carry double the load they were originally designed for. At 6,000 rpm I now have the surface speed of a 3,000-rpm shift. So, getting back to those 36 engagement teeth, if I remove every other tooth on the gear and slider, I’ve effectively cut my surface speed in half. However, if I remove every 10 pickets from the fence I can get the stick through the fence at 60 mph just as easily as if I were standing still. If I’m standing still, I can stick it between the pickets, but if I’m driving by at 60 mph, the stick may bounce off the fence. I always associate this with trying to place a stick through a picket fence while driving by that fence at 60 mph. When spinning above 6,000 rpm, the surface speed of the gear and slider can be very different in certain ratios. The matching slider that engages the gear has the same number of teeth. In a typical synchronized 4-speed, such as a Muncie, T10, Chrysler, or Ford Toploader, the transmission has 36 engagement or clutch teeth on the gear. With the newer style of metal alloys available today combined with the state-of-the-art CNC machining and 3D modeling, gear design has evolved to a level that allows for stronger horsepower capacity within a smaller configuration. Endurance events, such as NASCAR-style racing, require designs to be as light and efficient as possible. In a road-race environment, automatic design does not allow for quick ratio changes, quick tear-down, or the availability of efficient 4-, 5-, 6-, or even 7-speeds. Daytona may require a different set of ratios compared to Sebring. There are many gear ratios needed to negotiate various race tracks. You can copy and paste this link to share:

#OLD STYLE TO NEW STYLE O2J TRANS SHIFT ASSEMBLY FREE#

Didn't do squat for me, and from what I've read one or two other people have tried with the same poor result.SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. Oh yeah, someone was dead sold on heating up the tower in the oven and that the bearing would just about fall out. I was transferring it to a new (rebuilt) transmission and thought that now was the time to do this. There wasn't anything apparently wrong with this shift tower. The rubber washer actually installs over the shaft. The ordering top to bottom of the bits: seal, bearing and then rubber washer. Used a screwdriver and hammer on the top lip (once it was exposed enough) to get it the rest of the way out. I used a chisel from the top to catch the slight lip (lip on either end to keep bearing cage in place) and was able to start driving it out. I used a Dremel sanding drum (small), three of them, to cut away enough material that I could bend and snap off some of the shell metal: this is from the bottom edge. Not going to look back on this job! What a PITA.

This missing bearing might be why 5th gear disappeared. There was a rubber washer in the kit I got. Is that lever called the "shift adjustment pin" in post #16 of this thread?

I didn't know what the little right angle lever was for so I pulled the tower off separately. I stuck my magnet way down inside trany and nothing came back with it. There was no sign of the old bearings or cage when I opened it. It was in there so good the tacks would break off and take some race with them. Nothing to grab so I tacked some welds to the inside. Might get an answer to my rubber washer question.ĭamn that was just as nasty as some of the pics I've seen. I posted some of this in my first TDI project thread.īut it seems like the info would be better placed here.